Spring time the Italian way

By Chef Kady Guyton
May 10, 2010

It's always interesting to see how a dish evolves once it leaves it's home base. Depending on the taste buds of the people cooking, ingredients can get added in that the original creators never dreamed of. Or, depending on what's available, things get left out that some would consider indispensable.

No matter what, the dish is made, someone raves and it's added to the local repertoire. However, sometimes it's a good idea to look to the source material and see where things took a turn.

Spaghetti Carbonara is a great example of a dish that has gone on walkabout. In Italy, this is a lovely dish usually served in a small portion that's not too creamy, eggy or cheesy and uses bacon for flavor.

At many restaurants in this country, the same dish ends up being a plate full of dairy and bacon knotted together with copious amounts of pasta. Which can be ok, but halfway through the meal you start to wonder what you were thinking.

In an effort to capture what I love about this dish (bacon, eggs, cheese) and get rid of what I don't (a whole lot of dairy fat), I did a bit of digging and found a recipe that keeps the good stuff and lightens things up considerably.

To start, there is no cream. There is white wine and the noodles are tossed with the eggs and cheese while still slightly wet. I also strongly recommend reserving a couple cups of the pasta water. If things seem a little sticky, add a bit and toss again.

I've had this dish in Italy and it was made with prosciutto ham rather than bacon, panchetta is also a perfectly acceptable substitute. While we're adding things, toss in some vegetables. Right now, spring vegetables are turning up in the stores and the farmer's markets will be starting soon. Celebrate with a little asparagus, peppers and zucchini.

Spaghetti Carbonara is said to have gotten it's name from the flecks of black pepper resembling ash in an otherwise light-colored dish, so be sure to grind in plenty of that before serving.

Spaghetti Carbonara Primavera
Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 pound bacon (6 to 8 slices), slices halved length-wise, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 large eggs
3/4 cup Parmesan cheese , finely grated (about 2 ounces)
1/4 cup Pecorino Romano cheese , finely grated (about 3/4 ounce)

3 small cloves of garlic , pressed through garlic press or minced to paste

2 cups asparagus, sliced and blanched
1/2 zucchini, in 1/4 inch slices
1 cup sliced red or yellow bell pepper

1 pound spaghetti
table salt
ground black pepper

Directions:
1. Bring 4 quarts water to rolling boil in large Dutch oven or stockpot.

2. While water is heating, heat oil in large skillet over medium heat until shimmering, but not smoking. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and crisp, about 8 minutes. Add wine and simmer until alcohol aroma has cooked off and wine is slightly reduced, 4 to 6 minutes.

3. Add zucchini, asparagus and peppers. Cook until slightly tender. 3 to four minutes. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.

4. Beat eggs, cheeses, and garlic together with fork in small bowl; set aside.

5. When water comes to boil, add pasta and 1 tablespoon table salt; stir to separate pasta. Cook until al dente; reserve 1/3 cup pasta cooking water and drain pasta for about 5 seconds, leaving pasta slightly wet. Transfer drained pasta to warm serving bowl; if pasta is dry, add some reserved cooking water and toss to moisten.

6. Immediately pour egg mixture over hot pasta, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon sea salt flakes or 3/4 teaspoon table salt; toss well to combine. Pour bacon mixture over pasta, season generously with black pepper, and toss well to combine. Serve immediately.