Tri-color French potato salad

By Kady Guyton
June 29, 2009

I recently catered a wedding for a mixed marriage: the bride's family are pasta salad people and the groom's family are potato salad people. Both dishes were served and it went surprisingly smoothly.

Potato salad is one of those dishes that acts as a marker of region, class, upbringing and a ton of other factors that keep sociologists up at night. Whether the potatoes are mashed, cubed or roasted; if they are mixed with plain mayo or a mayo-mustard combination; capers or boiled eggs; all of it means something.

I prefer to steer wide of the pack and go French style. French potato salad relies mostly on the quality of the ingredients for flavor.

This is a salad that new potatoes were made for. Don't attempt this dish with russet potatoes, their floury texture will fall apart while mixing. New and fingerling potatoes are younger with a higher water content. More water makes them waxier in texture and ideal for boiling and roasting.

Because the salad is dressed with a light mustard and vinegar vinaigrette rather than a heavy mayo-based dressing, I like to use two or three different colors of potatoes. For this salad, I found purple and yellow fingerling potatoes and baby reds.

The other advantage of the lighter dressing is that it does not require the same level of vigilance on a hot summer day that a mayo-based dressing would. By all means, keep it chilled; but if it gets a little warm, the risk of bacteria growth is much lower.

This recipe comes from Ina Garten of The Barefoot Contessa. She mentions in the introduction that it's her version of Julia Child's French potato salad recipe. Replace the chicken stock with vegetable stock to make it vegan/vegaterian friendly.

Cooked salmon, tuna or boiled eggs can be added to increase the protein level and make a light summer lunch. I've also been told that the potatoes are excellent pan friend with eggs for breakfast.

French Potato Salad
Courtesy of Ina Garten and The Barefoot Contessa
Serves 4 to 6

2 pounds new or fingerling potatoes
2 tablespoons dry white wine
2 tablespoons chicken stock
3 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon fresh black pepper
10 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup minced scallions
2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
2 tablespoons minced parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and add the potatoes. Cook for 20 to 30 minutes until tender. Drain into a colander and cover with a towel to allow them to steam for 10 minutes.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut into halves or quarters and place in a medium bowl. Toss with wine and stock.

Combine vinegar, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a mixing bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil to create a light emulsion. Pour over potatoes and toss gently. Add herbs and top with basil.

Serve warm or at room temperature.